Page 86 - Shawl Weaving Artisan - TT

Regular 5-thread satin (Fig 10) If the design is divided in four quadrants, then the top-right
and bottom-left corners are having similar interlacement
pattern like Mock leno. However, the remaining two
quadrants have plain weave like interlacement pattern.
Therefore, some of the ends (end number 2, 4, 7 and 9)
are having long floats followed by regular interlacements.
The design requires four heald shafts.

• This type of satin weave has a consistent pattern
where the warp threads float over 5 weft threads
before interlacing with the next weft thread.

• The repeat pattern is determined by the number of
threads and the “move number” (which is 2 for a
5-thread satin).

• The result is a fabric with a smooth, lustrous surface
due to the long floats.
Irregular satin weave

Irregular satin weaves have the characteristics of a satin A 10×10 Huck-a-back weave as shown in Fig 13
weave that each and every row or column should have
only one interlacement point. However, irregular does
not have any specific move number and hence there is
no well-defined way of generating irregular satin weaves.
The most widely accepted way of drawing irregular satin
weave is based on the observation that, Half of the repeat
size has a pattern and the remaining half has a different
weave pattern.
The minimum repeat size for an irregular satin weave
having valid move number is 4. This is because, any
repeat size less than 4 does not have a common factor
to be a valid move number. In general, a prime number
cannot be used as a repeat size of an irregular satin
weave. For the minimum repeat size 4, the only valid
move number is 2 which is the only factor the repeat size
4 can have. For repeat size 6, the valid move numbers
are 2, 3, and 4 which can have a common factor with the Mock leno weaves
repeat size 6. (Fig 11&12) Mock leno is a type of fabric weave known for its unique
mesh-like appearance and open structure. It mimics
traditional leno weave without using complex weaving
techniques. Mock lenos, also known as imitation lenos
are a variety of weaves of ordinary construction which
produce effects that are similar in appearance to the
gauze or leno styles obtained with the aid of doup
mounting. These weaves are generally produced in
combination with plain, twill, satin or other simple weaves
or even with brocade figuring, to produce striped fabrics,
Huckaback weave which bear a very close resemblance to true leno fabrics.
A Huck a Back weave is a textile weaving pattern The main features of this weave are as follows:
characterized by a series of floats (longer sections of • It is an open perforated weave like as leno fabrics.
yarn) in two diagonal quadrants. This weave is particularly
known for its absorbent properties, making it ideal for • It is produced in the ordinary way without special leno
towels, glass cloths, and certain types of clothing. The shafts.
“huck” in the name refers to the “hackled” or rough surface • The similarity of this weave to the huckaback is quite
of the fabric, which is a result of the longer floats. Huck obvious, but the method of denting is different, as it
a back is largely used for cotton towels. The structure is necessary to encourage thread grouping.
is so arranged that plain weave gives hard wearing and
firmness whereas the loose floats pick-up good moisture.

76 Textile & Handloom: Shawl Weaving Artisan : (NSQF - 2024) R.T. Ex.No 1.5.43-48